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In the winter of 2005 - 2006 I was recovering from a broken ankle and dislocated shoulder and needed something to occupy my time around the house since I couldn't enjoy the winter at all.
My big hobby at the time was a saltwater tank I had set up in January of 2005 that had morphed from a fish-only tank into a soft-coral dominated tank and suffered from a sever lack of light.
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I have had fish tanks since I was 10 years old, this however was my first saltwater tank, and I had no idea I was doing everything wrong when I started. I quickly realized that my canister filter wasn't going to cut it so I upgraded to a sump setup with a refugium and as much live rock as I could feasibly afford at the time (close to 125 lbs.)
I then started having an interest in corals, and the single 40W flourescent just wasn't enough, so along came a Jebo with 4 X 55Watt Power Compact bulbs. That light was defintely betteer than my original, but it still wasn't nearly enough light.
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I looked online and in local shops for a light which looked good and contained at least 2 X 250 Watt Metal Halide bulbs. I couldn't find anything for under $1200 so I decided it was time to put my limited woodworking skills to use and build one.
I skected out some quick plans, decided on my lighting and ordered all my parts, within a week I was gathering the wood and beginning construction.
- Here is a collection of pictures I took during the construction of a DIY Aquarium Canopy for my 75 gallon saltwater aquarium.
- The canopy contained (2) 250 Watt Metal Halide lights and (2) 110 Watt VHO Actinic bulbs.
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This is how my aquarium looked on January 1, 2006. It is a 75 gallon mixed reef
with soft corals (leathers, shrooms, zoos) and lighting is provided by a Jebo 4X55W
Power Compact Fixture. In this picture you will see that the tank has a very blue
look, I was experimenting and I wanted to see what the blue bulbs which were included
with the Jebo looked like, not that good, glad I swapped them out first thing.
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DIY projects give me a chance to play with power tools. After spending all day staring
at a computer screen I enjoy coming home to rip through some pine with a miter saw.
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This is the plywood which will be used to "skin" my canopy. This is 1/4"
Red Oak plywood and it will be applied over a 1X2 Pine frame. Trim wood is regular
Red Oak molding from Home Depot in various styles.
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This is a mockup of one of the sides of the canopy, my plans can be seen on the
right. These were more of general guidelines and ideas as I deviated from the plans
slightly as I came up with ideas on how to make it better
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Gluing the side frame together. Unfortunately my other 24" clamp was being
used so I had to make do with 2 12" clamps. The entire frame is constructed
with "butt joints" to increase strength and ease construction.
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Every joint in the frame is glued and screwed for added strength. Here I am drilling
the pilot hole for the 2 5/8" deck screws I am using.
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Countersinking the screw.
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Driving the screw into the joint.
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This is the front of the frame with the cutouts for the doors. I am gluing the center
braces in at this point.
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Closeup of the front frame showing the construction of the corners.
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Attaching the side of the frame to the front. Using every clamp I had out at the
time just because.
- Day 2:
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I have now built the lid and added the piano hinge for the lid.
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This is the complete frame without the lid.
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Frame with lid.
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As I stood back admiring my creation it dawned on me to use some scrap 1X2 to provide
a solid stop for the top lid. This will prevent the lid from falling through.
- Day 3:
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Day 3 was COLD! Luckily I had access to a 50,000 BTU heater (which is glowing in
the background)
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Figuring out where I should mount the reflectors for the Metal Halides.
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Drilling pilot holes for the piano hinge in the frame.
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Test fit of the reflectors and the lid. Everything works, hey I might as well make
sure my ballasts work too right?
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Before: 2 X 55W PC 10,000K & 2 X 55W PC 7100K Blue - Jebo fixture
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After: 2 X 250W MH 10,000K - EVC Retro Kit
- Day 4:
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Moved the construction inside to the basement as it was too cold in the garage for
gluing the skin on the frame. Cut all skin pieces and attached side panels.
- Day 5:
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The entire frame has been "skinned" in Oak plywood.
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On the lid I wanted something a little different. I wanted the plywood lid to overlap
with the top of the frame 1" on the 3 non-hinged sides. To accomplish this
I built attached a spacer layer to the top of the frame. I purposely left the back
(hinge) side without a spacer to create a 10 square inch vent opening (not much
really.) Another piece of plywood will be glued to the top of the spacers to make
the lid.
- Day 6:
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This is the unfinished doors laying on the front of the canopy to check and see
how things look.
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This is the section between the front doors.
- Day 7:
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Day 7 was trim finishing day. Here you see the top lid with the trim added all the
way around. One little design flaw here, I should have extended the side trim all
the way back. You won't see it though unless you are 7 feet tall.
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Applying the trim to the front of the canopy. This is "Casing" molding
on the top and bottom and just simple corner molding for the corners.
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First coat of poly applied to the canopy.
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And to the doors.
- Days 8 - 10:
- Days 8 - 10 were spent applying poly to the outside and painting the inside gloss
white, then finally wiring up all the lights.
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This is the canopy on the tank. It really makes the stand look small and cheap,
so it will be replaced probably within the next year (and maybe a 90G tank upgrade
as well) In this picture only the VHO lights are running, 1 Super Actinic, 1 50/50
both 110 Watts.
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Another view of the canopy.